Discussion in 'Firearms and Hunting' started by modernpaladin, Nov 30, 2018.
Why a selectable red/green sight?
Personal preference or tactical?
PSA has a complete lower for $129 and a complete upper for $199 right now.
I had originally gone with the A2 handle/rear sight, and shot it that way for a few years. I just wanted something different, so I slapped the red/green dot on it. Turns out it sits too low, so I've got a 1" riser coming from Amazon. We'll see if I like it this way.
Palmetto State Armory.
One of the attractions of the AR is the endless combinations of customizations that can be done to suit the preferences/uses of the individual owner. A low price AR may be deceptive in cost over time because that. But then, a low cost entry point does allow a bit more funds for customization. I am currently filling customized builds to order for an FFL I work with for the upcoming gun show this weekend where each customer has selected components, upper chambering, barrel/length/twist combinations, etc. and will be on site to do some combination customizations, trouble shooting on the floor... not unlike the Glock fellows at many shows. Not a few customers are from LE with their privately owned weapons.
Agreed. If it wasn't for the custom furniture my build would have been under $400, as I mentioned. Next on my to do list is to upgrade my trigger. Any recommendations? I'm running a stock LPK now...
Several options available, many modular drop in triggers, from those such as Timney, Davidson Defense, Hiperfire, Rise, CMC, and others. They can be had in single stage or double stage depending on your druthers and use and pull weight (some adjustable) from 2lb to 6lb. Some examples can be found here.
I have tested many of them and can say most are big improvements over milspec triggers, though before I acquired a couple, I did vastly improve my first milspec trigger with a careful polish job. One of my lowers has a Hipertouch single stage adjustable (formerly the 24C) for tactical use and the other a Guissele two stage for long range shooting. Both options as some of the others range in price from $165 to $250 last I checked.
Be cautious when buying, particularly at gun shows. There are Timney and Hiperfire Chinese counterfeits out there...so if the price seems too good, ask questions, it probably is.
Lot of places selling these triggers over the counter and even at gun shows have examples mounted on demo lowers that you can test.
What do you recommend for that task?
I used a dremel with a polishing bit and rouge to polish contact surfaces, removing the rough surface. However, you must polish carefully, removing no...or at least as little as possible, metal. While you can carefully stone the sear, you can easily muck it up. I‘d recommend, having, if you don’t already, have spare trigger components around in case you muck the job... I have them, as I do other spare parts, in my take along field repair kit anyway.
There are YouTube videos on how to do polish jobs for improving firearm reliability out there, but I would use caution with using them; I do a lot of 1911 customization and repaire and I frequently encounter ones that have feeding issues where someone has watched a video on polishing the feeding ramp and barrel throat to find the owner over polished, change the feeding ramp angle, etc. and even undercut the chamber support for casings making for a dangerous situation. Sometimes the only solution is a new barrel. Often, unfortunate, because in many cases, feeding issues being experienced could be resolved by new/better mags, changing recoil springs, slide stops (including reprofiling or getting a new one), ejector spring, or even proper cleaning and lub.
With triggers for an AR, weather hunting or competing, a good (consistent-reliable) trigger is, IMO, of huge importance and you kind of get what you pay for.
Some might recommend against a DIY polish job. Here's some how-to's.
When referring to a polishing bit is that one of those about one inch across cotton drums?
I also take it, don't meddle with the fit / angles, just polish the mating surfaces where they rub in normal operation?
And yes rouge sounds good, I have white polishing compound, which I believe is the more courser of the two and dark red rouge.
And yes literally with those two plus lots of labor, I have been able to put a mirror finish on stainless steel deck railing.
Interesting point, hard surface plating, remove it and the job is mucked up.
I'm a big DIY guy (waiting for Mr. Postman to deliver a barrel for an upper build this afternoon) but with an AR, I'd just as soon pay a bit for a pro trigger job. Now, the polish job on my SP01, thatsa nice - 6.5 lb DA, 3 lb SA trigger pull. Pretty much limited to Federal primers, though.
Does that have to do with the polishing or another modification?
I take it you find Federal primers to be more energetic?
It has to do with the light springs I have in the gun. Federal primers are softer than most, so I can still get reliable ignition with my handloads. Factory loads, especially military surplus loads, may not give 100% fire in this gun. It's a race gun, though, so my life doesn't depend on it.
Thanks for the answer.
Never heard it before, but "Race Gun" sounds to me like pistol competition shooting, which I know little about.
It's just a term for a competition pistol, all tricked out for competition, that generally doesn't have much other use. My competition pistol weighs 3 lbs fully loaded; my carry pistol weighs half that.
Bought one out of the box. Took a look at all the different parts and thinking of building one. Though the cost probably will end up costing more that 300.
Any of you ever tried the .22 bolt carrier group converter? I'm thinking of picking up one for some low price plinking fun
Yeah, I thought about. My research concluded that you lose a lot of accuracy. Remember, though, that you also need special magazines to feed .22 through an AR frame.
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